Guide to Downtown Cancún

To reach downtown from the hotel zone, hop on an R-1, R-2 or R-27 bus. The R-1 line veers right on Avenida Tulum and stops at the ADO station, Cancúns long-distance bus terminal. If you’re coming from the airport, catch an ADO bus from the terminals to the downtown station, which leaves you within walking distance of centrally located Parque de las Palapas and many of the most popular hostels and hotels. Shared airport shuttles start at M$267 ($15), while private vans and taxis run around M$716 ($40) to El Centro.

City cabs from the hotel zone charge about M$300 ($17) to downtown, a pricey ride when compared to the affordable M$12 ($0.67) bus fare.

At the Puerto Juarez ferry terminal, you can arrive at and from nearby Isla Mujeres by boat. The ferries depart every half hour or so and the gorgeous ride across the teal-toned sea takes about 30 minutes.

Long considered Cancún’s most important cultural hub, this festive urban park is the go-to spot for free concerts, dance performances and other cultural events. The square really comes alive at night when the thermometer drops a few notches and the food vendors roll out their carts; if you’re feeling snacky just wait till you get a whiff of the street corn, crepes and corn-based Yucatecan snacks wafting in the air. Everything you can nosh on in the park is ridiculously cheap and here’s a little secret: the homemade maracuya (passion fruit) ice cream is a must-try.

For a memorable night out downtown, get things started in the restaurant and bar zone surrounding Parque de las Palapas. Kick off the evening with margaritas and live mariachi music at the perennially packed La Parilla, where between 7:30 pm to 11 pm you can join in on the sing-alongs, or maybe not. The mariachis charge by the song but there’s usually someone else paying, so just sit back, tip your glass and enjoy the atmosphere as the musicians belt out heartfelt ballads.

More fun can be found on the rooftop bar at Nomads Party Hostel because a party hostel without fiestas wouldn’t be a party hostel. There’s usually some music and dancing going on and non-guests are received with open arms. Just one block west, Hunter Bar has been known to throw some legendary bashes as well. You don’t have the rooftop view but the intimate cantina vibe and live music make up for that. For a less boozy vibe, Cancún’s famous Rooster Cafe has you covered with its strong java and fresh-made muffins and brownies.

This public beach north of downtown’s Isla Mujeres Ferry Terminal just might have Cancún’s most swimmable waters, barring pools and lagoons of course. If possible, visit the small beach on a weekday, as it tends to get crowded on Saturday and Sunday. Don’t expect the postcard-perfect turquoise waters that you’ll find further up the coast in Costa Mujeres and Isla Blanca, but if you’re pressed for time, it’s conveniently close to the city and there are some top-notch seafood restaurants within walking distance of the beach.

Downtown makes a great base to visit the unspoiled beaches of Isla Blanca, the northernmost point of Cancún, though we should clarify that the remote island is actually a municipality of nearby Isla Mujeres and not part of Cancún. Now that we’ve shared that important nugget, you should also know that there’s no public transportation to Isla Blanca, however, if you rent a car we’re sure you’ll agree it’s worth every peso to discover the island’s sublime coast. The end of the bumpy dirt road delivers a big-time payoff as you find yourself standing between the aquamarine Caribbean Sea and a wildlife-rich lagoon. Once settled in, all you need to do is plop down under the rustic seafood palapa, order some snacks and cold drinks and soak up the delightful scenery.

For expansive views of Nichupte Lagoon and the hotel zone, take a stroll along this palm-studded boardwalk on the seldom-visited southeast side of downtown. It’s a relatively short walk along the shore, and it’s not exactly boomtown, but it sure is a pretty place to be when the sun goes down. After the sunset saunter, head up Avenida Sayil and walk about four long blocks to La Playita, an open-air restaurant and bar that serves frozen margaritas, mezcal cocktails and minty mojitos. Or mosey across the street and hang at Plaza de Toros, a former bullring that has been converted into a hopping bar zone.

Kids dig the high slides, tipping splash bucket, colorful playground equipment and miniature golf at this Punta Sam water park. Here you can also rent kayaks if you’d like to paddle around in the ocean across the street. The large property also has tennis courts, ping-pong tables and a thatched-roof snack bar.

At the somewhat hidden Puerto Santo, if you didn’t know any better you might think you were eating in a small fishing village as you dig your toes into the sand and watch the small motorboats bob on the shore. Tucked away in a gated residential area in Puerto Juarez (bring ID to show at the entrance), Puerto Santo has quietly become one of downtown’s top spots to eat fresh citrus-marinated ceviche and aguachile. Bring a swimsuit and you can take a refreshing dip in the water after the meal.

Another fine seafood option is Marbella, a high-end fish market and raw bar on the Puerto Juarez coast. Try house specialties such as grilled octopus, fresh oysters and fried fish.

For a hearty breakfast, don’t miss Marakame Cafe’s famous buffet and weekend brunch, an all-you-can-eat spread that includes handmade quesadillas, egg dishes a la Mexicana, fresh-made bread and pastries, and bottomless mimosas. Here you can also catch live music on weekend nights in the open-air cafe’s tropical garden.

Come night time, locals flock to Tacos Rigo for the inexpensive al pastor (spit-cooked pork) and tender arrachera (marinated skirt steak) tacos.

The hotel zone lures shoppers with its modern airy malls filled with boutique shops and entertaining attractions, whereas El Centro stands out for its traditional markets offering Mexican crafts, affordable clothes and homestyle eats. Granted, El Centro has its fair share of contemporary shopping centers such as Plaza Las Americas, the newer Malecon Americas, and discount mall Las Plazas Outlet, but the quintessential downtown shopping experience is all about the mercados (markets).

Of the main markets in the center of town, Mercado 23 provides the most authentic experience. Look for the stands selling huipiles (colorful embroidered dresses) and guayaberas (traditional shirts from the Yucatan), then pull up a seat at El Paisano del 23 and snack on a torta de pierna, an iconic pork sandwich topped with salsa verde.

The other big market, Mercado 28, exudes a more touristy vibe but it’s also worth visiting. After shopping, take a load off at El Cejas, an emblematic seafood joint where you can chat over micheladas (beer cocktails) and seafood tostadas. Or grab some eats at one of the stalls slinging Yucatecan comfort food such as corn-based salbutes.

In the Mercado de Artesanias, along Avenida Tulum, you’ll come across more of the same souvenirs and crafts as well as affordable beachwear.

When first-time visitors think of downtown Cancún, they don’t associate it with beaches but there’s actually an up-and-coming resort area about 20 minutes north of the city center with absolutely gorgeous oceanfront hotels, such as the elegant Catalonia Grand and the adults-only Excellence Playa Mujeres. The Punta Sam neighborhood lies about three and a half miles north of Puerto Juarez; continue north and you’ll reach the stretch of coast known as Costa Mujeres, named after its sister island just 4 miles off the coast.

Many downtown hotels are within walking distance of Avenida Tulum, one of the city center’s two main thoroughfares. Midrange options such as Hotel Bonampak and Oh! Cancún possesses two key attributes when looking for lodging in El Centro: large swimming pools and easy access to the buses heading to the beach.

For a solid budget option, Los Girasoles offers good value on a quiet cul-de-sac and it’s near Avenida Yaxchilan, a main avenue lined with sidewalk bars, restaurants and other affordable hotels. The rooms get spotty wi-fi reception but other than that you won’t find much to complain about.

Basically anyone. El Centro definitely offers a wider selection of hostels, economical guesthouses and midrange accommodations than the hotel zone. And north of downtown, a growing number of chic resorts have cropped up along the splendid turquoise coast of Punta Sam and Costa Mujeres, so there’s something for every budget. Generally, downtown will appeal to anyone interested in tapping into Cancún’s local scene, whereas the hotel zone resorts can feel at times like you’re living in a bubble. Business travelers gravitate toward El Centro’s modern chain hotels, families enjoy the properties with large pools and backpackers settle into the convivial hostels clustered around Parque de las Palapas and the bus station.