Rome has two international airports, but Fiumicino is the biggest and best. Clean and well laid out, beautiful terminals and first-rate amenities (the shopping!), its intimidating size is tempered by its Italian flare. It’s an exercise in how to do things right at scale.
And it is huge. Italy’s busiest airport, Fiumicino handles around 40 million passengers a year and that number is trending upwards. Currently, 136 airlines fly to 73 countries and 233 destinations, domestic and international. It’s certainly doing something right, as it’s been voted Europe’s best airport with more than 40 million travellers for six years running by the Airports Council International.
Travelling to and from Rome and beyond
Fiumicino’s footprint renders it too big to live within Rome’s walls. It sits around 20 miles from the centre near the small town that gave it its name. It’s a spectacular setting hugging the coastline of the Tyrrhenian Sea so I highly recommend booking a window seat on your flights in and out.
Direct and regional train services
Heading into Rome central, by far the best option is the Leonardo Express train. Hop on at the airport railway station close to both terminals and it will see you to Roma Termini main station in 32 minutes. Trains depart every 15 minutes from around 06:00 to 23.30 pm daily.
For destinations outside the center, the FL1 regional line trains may be more suitable. Bypassing the Termini station, they instead traverse popular districts like Trastevere, Ostiense, Tuscolana and Tiburtina. They also depart every 15 minutes from the airport station on weekdays, and every 30 minutes on weekends. Journeys typically cost about half as much as the Leonardo Express but are much slower.
Your third rail option takes you beyond Rome aboard a Frecciarossa ‘red arrow’ train. High speed and comfortable, they connect directly to some of Italy’s most tantalising cities – Naples, Florence, Bologna, Padua and Venice. They run regularly but not often, so check travel times in advance.
If you’re travelling to Fiumicino on a Trenitalia train and are flying with ITA Airways, you may be able to take advantage of their new FCO Connect partnership. Officially operating “on an experimental basis” (which admittedly doesn’t fill one with confidence), you can drop your baggage directly at the airport station and collect them at your end destination. The bag drop counter is open 6 am to midday and is only available if you’ve already checked in online. Good luck!
Bus
There are lots of bus lines ploughing the commute between Fiumicino and a range of Rome destinations. Depending on how deep you’re going into the city, travel times are around an hour. Buses are regular and cheap but can also be cramped and sweaty. You’re far better off taking a train.
Driving and parking
The airport is far away enough from Rome that access by car is easy. Actually, it’s lovely as it gives you the chance to explore the nearby coastal towns like ancient, atmospheric Ardea. There’s plenty of parking – short stay is within walking distance of the terminals but long stay lots are a shuttle ride away.
Alongside the usual main car rental companies there’s a wide range of local companies offering all sorts of deals for those brave enough to try them. Experience in Italy has taught me to avoid such companies, which are fond of finding ways to add costs post-rental, and stick to what you know. My go-to is Drivalia.
Airport layout
Fiumicino Airport is in a state of flux, which has led to some slightly strange naming. Technically, it has four terminals, though they’re confusingly called Terminals 1, 2, 3 and 5. Terminal 4 is yet to be built. To add to that confusion, only Terminal 1 and Terminal 3 are currently functioning.
This makes transfers between them particularly easy, as they’re just a five-minute walk apart. In my experience, the walk is quicker than the free shuttle bus once you factor in waiting times.
Check in, bag drop and security
If you have to drop bags or check in at the airport, expect queues. Although I’ve never had to wait more than 30 minutes, the sheer volume of passengers passing through can cause bottlenecks. If you can’t travel with carry-on bags only, give yourself an hour as you would with any major airport, just to be sure.
If you’re catching a connecting flight within Schengen countries you won’t need to go through security. If you’re connecting via a Non-Schengen country, you’ll have to go through immigration and security and should plan an hour for that into your transfer time. Connecting flights are well signposted, with a noticeboard showing details, times and gates in the connections area just after you deboard.
Using Terminal 1
One of the great boons of the budget airline revolution is the sheer variety of routes they’ve opened up, inviting people to explore places they’d likely never have considered before. Fiumicino does exactly this, acting as a central hub for Mediterranean tourism. The fact it’s home to one of the biggest Aelia duty-free zones in the world is testament to its popularity.
Shopping is reasonably well catered to with a smattering of Italian fashion brands and gift stores. But the star in T1’s crown is the Eataly food court on the second floor plaza. As a short haul hub, most passengers don’t have long waits or transfers so time for a sitdown meal can be limited. Eataly brings Italian quality to fast food.
Gone is the greasy pizza and soggy pasta of old. In their place, authentic and tasty, if pricey, Italian classics. Browse, pick and mix what you like the look of – though you’d be wise not to overlook the mozzarella di bufala pizza and Amatriciana pasta. For sophistication and fine wine, head to Berlucchi.
Using Terminal 3
Terminal 3 is far larger, catering to some domestic and Schengen destinations, but mostly it’s about the long haul. If you’re travelling with British Airways, it’s T3 you’ll use.
While it also has a lesser Eataly and plenty of Italian eats, I’m usually swayed by the great Ramen restaurant Ajisen. There are of course more cafés than you can count, but Caffè Kimbo is my favourite, unless the chocolates at Venchi demand my attention. Sated, it’s time to shop – and you’re very well catered to.
From Armani to Zegna via Cartier and Louis Vuitton, every major luxury brand has an outlet, as do smaller brands. It’s an overwhelming display of capitalism, glitz and high fashion that’s a blast to window shop at the very least. Best of all, if you’re heading to a Non-Schengen country, it’s VAT free. Don’t forget to claim your VAT back from any Rome purchases at the dedicated refund counters – just keep your receipts.
One last thing to watch for as you navigate T3 (and T1 for that matter) are the often incredible art installations. A celebration of Italian history and culture, look up and you may find yourself eye to eye with an ancient statue from the nearby Ostia Antica archaeological park.
This KAYAK-commissioned article is presented as-is, for general informational purposes only, and may not be up-to-date. The opinions contained in the article are original to the author and reflect their authentic experience, which may vary significantly from the experience of others.
